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The science of Hurricane Sandy

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“It’s not just a tropical storm, but a wind storm, a snow storm,” Garrett said.

Sandy could also produce record-setting storm surges. The swirling movement of its winds creates a big bulge of water that typically moves to the storm’s center. There, the low pressure in the atmosphere acts like a straw and pulls the water levels even higher, Masters said. If a storm is farther out to sea, that bulge would eventually sink. But because Sandy has moved to shallower inland waters, that bulge has nowhere to go but toward shore, he said.

The slowness of the storm means it could sit over the East Coast through several high tide cycles. Scientists are predicting 10- to 11-foot storm surges, including high tide conditions, in places like New York and New Jersey. Monday night’s full moon could add another foot to the surge, Knabb said. Finally, many inlets and bays in the mid-Atlantic are funnel-shaped, which means water can surge in easily, but getting out is a challenge.

Knabb said he didn’t expect water levels to return to normal until Wednesday.

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